Want to have a look round the site of some of Canada’s TOP-SECRET communications throughout the Cold War? Well, you can, at Diefenbunker, one of the country’s most unusual and fascinating visitor attractions, just 20 miles outside Ottawa. I visited the capital to celebrate Canada’s 150th Birthday During my trip I hired a car to explore some of the nearby sights. Diefenbunker was without doubt the strangest site I saw.
Diefenbunker Nuclear Bunker Museum
Began in 1959 at the height of the Cold War with Russia, Diefenbunker was a part of a top-secret operation under the code name Experimental Army Signals Establishment (EASE). Canadian Prime Minister John Diefenbaker authorized the creation of about 50 Emergency Government Headquarters (nicknamed Diefenbunkers) across Canada. This site was designated to house Canada’s Government in the event of nuclear war. Within evacuation distance of downtown Ottawa, it was in a natural valley outside the tiny hamlet of Carp. (Keep an eye out for the colourful mural for Carp Agricultural Fair.)
As you’d expect, the entrance to Canada’s Cold War HQ is insignificant but as soon as you enter you know you are in somewhere VERY different. Walking down the Blast Tunnel is quite unnerving, especially when you are told that the massive doors to the actual bunker are perpendicular to the tunnel to reducing the effects of a nuclear shock wave. It was built to withstand a nuclear blast of up to 5 megatons from 1.1 miles away.
Diefenbunker is the only one of its kind, virtually unchanged since it was decommissioned in 1994 and reopened as a museum in 1998. I’d highly recommend booking a Guided Tour as you will learn a huge amount about this unique visitor attraction. The 4-storey bunker cost C$20m+ and could accommodate 565 people for up to one month. It held food, fuel, fresh water and everything needed to keep government going. Facilities included male and female sleeping quarters, eating areas, recreational space, a medical and dental unit and and an early computer system. There’s a section dedicated to Igor Gouzenko, who defected from the Soviet Embassy in Ottawa on September 5, 1945. This was just three days after the end of World War II with 109 documents on Soviet espionage activities in the West. He exposed Joseph Stalin’s efforts to steal nuclear secrets and the technique of planting sleeper agents. The “Gouzenko Affair” is often credited as a triggering event of the Cold War.
In the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation studio you can hear a recording of the announcement that would have been sent out, had a nuclear attack been launched. Most unnerving. Going down to the lowest level, there’s a huge vault that was made to hold the Bank of Canada gold reserves. More poignant are the 11 Steps to Survival, including ‘Have 14 days of emergency supplies’ and the awesomely useless ‘Know how to get rid of radioactive dust and sand’. In those days, knowledge of the long-term effects of radioactivity was scant.
The Prime Minister’s Suite was slightly more luxurious than the simple I was shown the Operations Room with a huge map of Canada showing the area that fallout would reach from Ottawa, depending on wind direction. It’s these things that bring home just what a real threat the Cold War posed and also the futility of it all.
From construction to the end of the Cold War, between 100 and 150 people worked 24 hour shifts to allow secret communications for the Department of National Defence. Ironically, Prime Minister John Diefenbaker never visited. Fortunately none of the bunkers around Canada were needed for evacuation, which is a good job as nuclear fallout lasts much longer than the 40 days planned for.
More information on Diefenbunker Museum. As it’s open all year round it’s ideal for an excursion whatever the weather and is great for all the family. I thoroughly enjoyed my visit and would highly recommend it for anyone wanting to get an insight into a challenging time in history, not just for Canada but the whole world.
Things to do in and around Ottawa
Things to see and do in Ottawa: explore Canada’s capital city of colourful charm
Take a Food and Drink Tour in a funky part of Ottawa: discover the tasty delights of Hintonberg
Celebrate Canada’s big birthday in Ottawa: plenty of ideas for fun things to see and do any time of year.
Upper Canada Village; Discover daily life in 1800s Canada (open May-September plus special occasions)
Fulton’s Pancake House and Sugar Shack; learn how maple syrup is made (open winter/spring plus special events)
Sponsored Post: This article is written in collaboration with Destination Canada, sponsor of my visit to Canada. It was a pleasure to explore more of Canada, a country of unforgettable experiences.
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