The hard work and commitment of a great many people has paid off and the Lake District World Heritage site now joins other renowned UNESCO WHO places such as the Galapagos Islands in Ecuador, Uluru (Ayers Rock) in Australia, Mount Teide in Tenerife and the Rocky Mountains in Canada. If you’re a regular reader of this blog, you will know how much I love the Lake District and also visiting World Heritage Sites, so to have this on my doorstep is VERY special. A few days after the result was announced I went to be stay in the very heart of Lakeland, in the Langdale Valley. Here are some of its highlights.
Great Langdale Valley
The Langdale Valley includes some of the most impressive mountains (called ‘fells’ in the Lakes) in England. These craggy peaks provide a dramatic backdrop to an area where man, beast and nature live together in relative harmony. Langdale means ‘Long Valley’ in Old Norse, a hint to the ancient history of this mining and farming area. Very often the fells are shrouded in mist in this valley, adding to its moody magnificence. Dry stone walls ribbon across the mountain sides, sheep meander about willy-nilly and picturesque farm buildings add to its rural charm. The five peaks of Crinkle Crags, Pike o’ Bisco and the jagged ridge of the Langdale Pikes are the grand masters of this scenery.
Elterwater
The village of Elterwater (meaning Swan Lake) spreads out across valley, vying for space with the Herdwick sheep which wander its lanes and graze on the Common. An easy stroll takes the walker to Elterwater lake; good flat path but can get very muddy when if it’s been raining recently. The Britannia Inn is the hub of the village, serving excellent ales, an interesting choice of wines and superb food. There’s also cafe and a bus stop, a couple of hotels, a large time-share property and plenty of self-catering cottages for all the visitors who come to stay here. The Good Life Lake District Cottage Company has their main office here, housed in a quaint stone building which usually has a Herdy wandering about outside the door.
Chapel Stile
The Langdale Rambler (Bus 516) stops on the main road through Chapel Stile, dropping off visitors and locals in this tiny hamlet, well-served by the excellent Langdale Co-Op. This shop sells absolutely everything you could wish for, whether you’re camping, self-catering or out for the day. Tasty Cumberland sausages, Hawkshead Relish (I can recommend their Black Garlic Ketchup), micro-brewery beer, tent pegs, wet-weather gear, fridge magnets, tea towels and oh so much more. Upstairs in Brambles Cafe, locals exchange gossip and walkers rest their feet whilst having a cuppa or more hearty meal. Beneath Silver Howe is the 19thc Parish Church of Holy Trinity, built on the site of the original chapel, in the local green slate which has been quarried here for centuries. Every year they hold the Langdale Gala here; great fun!
The Old Dungeon Ghyll
Towards the end of the valley lies one of the most famous pubs, the Old Dungeon Ghyll in the Lake District. Tucked right up against the mountain side, this venerable old hotel was the meeting place for climbing clubs from around the country, drawn by the challenging peaks outside the door. I love the Hiker’s Bar, which has remained unchanged for decades and features the original cow stalls and stone floors. You can get a great pint, a coffee, lunch, dinner and if you’re lucky with the weather, sit outside and enjoy the scenery.
Little Langdale Valley
From the Old Dungeon Ghyll the road winds up towards Blea Tarn and into the Little Langdale valley. Driving up here takes nerves and good brakes as the road has some steep, sharp twists and is very narrow. Kamikaze Herdwicks wander out in front of the car and the view is most distracting.
Blea Tarn
There’s a National Trust car park for Blea Tarn (tarn = little lake); it’s a Site of Special Scientific Interest, with brown pike in the water, alpine flowers in spring and tiny orchids in summer. However, it’s the view of the Pike o’Bisco and the Langdale Pikes laid out for your delectation that tops all that. I’ve walked here a few times but Blea Tarn has never looked as lovely as it did that July afternoon with marshmallow-soft clouds reflected in the shallow water and sunlight flittering across the peaks.
Three Shires Pub
Voted Cumbria Tourism’s Pub of the Year 2017, the Three Shires Inn is at the conjunction of the three old counties of Cumberland, Westmorland and Lancashire, now bundled together as Cumbria. It’s a pretty pub with decent food and lively atmosphere, though limited parking which meant on this recent visit I had to give it a miss. The road heads off towards the twin passes of Wrynose and HardKnott; not for the faint-hearted. Not far away is one of the most photographed sights in the Langdales, Slaters Bridge, an old pack-horse bridge and also enormous Cathedral Cave.
Church Gate Cottage
I stayed in Chapel Stile with Good Life Lake District Cottage Company in a charming holiday home called Church Gate. Tastefully restored and attractively decorated, it sleeps four people in two bedrooms. The open plan kitchen, dining area and lounge makes excellent use of the space and there’s a delightful little garden opposite. There are impressive views from the bedrooms across the village towards the mountains. Have a look inside Church Gate cottage here.
With the village shop just down the hill and a pub, Wainwrights Inn, five minutes’ walk, it’s the perfect place to stay to enjoy the Lake District World Heritage site. Many thanks to Natalie and the team at Good Life Lake District Cottage Company for another very enjoyable stay.
More lovely places I’ve stayed in and around the Langdale Valley.
Daw Bank Cottage, Chapel Stile
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